![]() AdvisoriesĬontrary to some reports, milky spore does appear to over winter well in the northern U.S. ![]() Apply twice a year (Spring and Fall) for 3 years to achieve the same effects as the powder product. Use a standard drop spreader to apply the granular product. Use a tube dispenser to treat large areas. ft.) in teaspoon sized spots every 4 feet, in rows four feet apart (in a checkerboard pattern) on all grassy areas, mulch beds, and gardens. Use on lawns, flower and vegetable gardens, and around shrubs and trees.Īpply at the rate of 10 lbs per acre (or 4 oz per 1,000 sq. The more grubs there are, the faster the disease spreads among them. Milky Spore will not spread in the soil unless grubs are present. Milky Spore is a disease that specifically targets Japanese beetle grubs and, once in the soil, continues to control them for 20 years. In small cells about three to six inches below the soil.Īn environmentally safe way to control grubs, especially in lawns. The grub is usually in the pupal stage for about three weeks. Metamorphoses will occur and from which it will emerge an adult in early In late spring, the grub stops feeding and enters the pupa stage during which They live just below the frost lineĪnd will return in the spring to feed on new roots before going into the pupa As they molt, they continue to grow largerĪs the temperatures grow colder, the grub will go down into the soil aboutįour to eight inches to survive until spring. Other plants throughout the month of August. They will appear to be creamy white in color and will be in a C When the eggs hatch, small grubs in their first-stage of larval existence willĮmerge. Upon the moisture, temperature and other environmental conditions. The eggs will mature in the soil, taking about two weeks to hatch, depending ![]() The egg-laying process may take her two to three weeks to complete. In July, the female beetle begins laying up to 60 eggs in the soil,īurrowing about three inches into the ground each time she deposits herĮggs. In most species, and depending upon the geographic location, theadultbeetleĮmerges from its underground wintering in June or July. Technical identification of a larval beetle damaging the lawn is usually not necessary. The term ‘white-grubs’ usually refers to the common larvae of the ‘May-Bugs’ or June-bugs’. Some grub larval forms are white in color while others are brownish or grey. Grubs can vary in size from 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches. However, there are some species in which a life cycle may take three years to complete. With the Japanese beetle and many other types of scarab beetles a life cycle is completed each year. While various species of scarab beetles have slightly differing life cycles, most follow a similar pattern. One of the grubs you are most likely to encounter in your garden is the white grub, which is the larval form of the Japanese beetle. With lots of grubs in the soil, other pest which feed on the grubs (such as mice, moles, voles, gophers, etc.) may also become a problem.Ī grub is actually the larval stage in the life cycle of various types of flying beetles. If your property is near “wild” fields or similar un-tended areas, grubs will generally be an on-going battle. The affected grass and plants die a slow death weakened by having their roots destroyed with the grub root-browsing. These are common insect pests of all turf-grass lawns and can also reside in the soil near the roots of many species of other types of plants to do their root-feeding damage. Lawns that are heavily damaged by grubs will have a yellowish tinge and will feel spongy when walked on. They eat the roots of grass, causing the grass to die and form brown patches. These grubs are C-shaped, off-white in color with a dark head. The grubs that you see in the lawn are the larvae of Japanese beetles, June beetles, and chafers. There are more than 40 species of insects which have a “grub-worm” larval stage in the top-soil fortunately almost all can be controlled and the damage prevented if the home-owner is observant and informed. But before you reach for the insecticide bottle, there are a number of organic alternatives that will help you cope with the grubs without poisoning yourself or your family. Dead or yellow dying grass is a primary symptom.īeetle grubs can turn a fine looking lawn into a patchwork quilt of yellow spots. In lawns, where roots are conveniently close together, the grass is easily pulled away from the soil because the white grubs have eaten off the roots.
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